Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden and Jazz Club The Moment (Day 5)
Around 9 in the morning I had planned to visit Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden, so I took the Yamanote Line toward Shinjuku Station, one of the busiest transit hubs in the world. Even after many visits to Tokyo, arriving there still feels overwhelming in the best possible way — endless streams of people moving in every direction, giant screens glowing above the streets and the constant sound of trains arriving and departing.
I decided to turn the trip into a small walk, so instead of getting off at Shinjuku, I continued one stop further to Yoyogi Station and did the rest on foot. The weather was beautiful once again, with clear skies and a soft spring temperature that made wandering around Tokyo incredibly enjoyable. The closer I got to the park, the more the atmosphere slowly changed from the chaos of the city into something quieter and more relaxed.
Soon I arrived at the entrance gate of Shinjuku Gyoen. Conveniently enough, my Pasmo card could also be used to enter the park. The entrance fee was only 500 yen, about €2.70, which felt like almost nothing considering how beautiful and well maintained the place is.
The park itself is huge, but I was not really there to rush around and see every single corner. I mostly wanted to slow down a little, enjoy the weather and absorb the atmosphere. Since it was a Saturday there were already quite a few people walking around — tourists, Japanese families, couples taking pictures and groups of friends sitting on the grass. Still, the park never felt overcrowded. There was enough space and silence to make it feel calm and personal, even in the middle of Tokyo.
One thing I especially enjoyed was how the park constantly changes character depending on where you walk. Some parts feel very open and almost European, with wide lawns and carefully designed gardens, while other areas suddenly become more traditional and quiet, with ponds, small bridges and trees creating little hidden corners away from the crowds.
There was also a greenhouse inside the park, and although it was incredibly warm once inside, it was worth visiting. The building contained all kinds of special plants and tropical flowers, some of them enormous and almost unreal looking. A jungle-like walking trail circled through the greenhouse, and for a moment it felt like stepping into a completely different climate and country altogether. The air was heavy and humid, the windows covered in condensation, while outside Tokyo continued as normal.
After spending a couple of relaxed hours in the park, returning to Otsuka was easy. I made my usual stop at the local sushi place and Lawson convenience store before heading back to the hotel to rest a little and get ready for the evening concert at Jazz Club The Moment.
I had already figured out how to get there, but Yuki Nakae contacted me and we agreed to travel together, which is usually what happens when we play in Tokyo. Around 16:30 we met up and started making our way to the venue.
The Moment is a very special jazz club. The place is built specifically for acoustic music, and the sound in the room is honestly one of the best I have experienced in Japan. Because of that, Yuki and I actually play without microphones there — only the bass and piano are amplified. Everything else simply fills the room naturally, which creates a much more intimate and direct connection with the audience. Since the club opens at 18:00 there is not much time for setup and soundcheck, but in a room like that things come together quickly. Within about 30 minutes we were ready to go.
While waiting a bit before the audience arrived, I walked outside looking for a smoking area when my friend Kazuhiro Sato contacted me. He was already nearby, and soon we met in front of the club before heading into the Starbucks across the street.
I have known Sato-san for a long time now. He is a huge jazz fan, especially of Dutch jazz musicians, and he often records concerts whenever possible. This time he would also be filming parts of the show, becoming the unofficial cameraman for the evening but for me he is also like a younger brother, he has a special spirit inside.
By the time we returned to the club the place was slowly filling up. I started recognizing familiar faces in the audience. Johan and Marie had already arrived, and shortly after another friend, John, walked in as well. He lives in Tokyo and had been looking forward to hearing the band live.
The club ended up completely sold out, and not long after we started the first set — or “stage,” as they often say in Japan. Right from the beginning the audience gave us incredible energy. Japanese jazz audiences can be very attentive and respectful during performances, but at the same time you can really feel their enthusiasm and appreciation.
The band was absolutely smokin’. Everything seemed to click naturally, and before I realized it, the entire first set had flown by and it was already time for a short break.
